Tuesday, June 12, 2007
Saturday, June 9, 2007
Thursday, June 7, 2007
Larkhill (V for Vendetta).
From Merriam-Webster Online:
Entry Word: larkA good choice of the name in the movie: Larkhill.
Function: noun
Text: a time or instance of carefree fun {the kids had a grandlark at the carnival}
Long's Peak view.
These photos were taken in Rocky Mountain National Park on 24th of May, 2007. It snowed during the night, so everything was covered with ~2 inches of snow. The views were outstanding. Here is a view across the road from Beaver Meadows Visitor Center:
As we drove into the park, we saw Longs Peak, in winter-like snow cover:
And here is a closeup. You can see the Diamond (triangular wall left off the peak) and the snow-covered north face to the right of it:
More photos are coming!
As we drove into the park, we saw Longs Peak, in winter-like snow cover:
And here is a closeup. You can see the Diamond (triangular wall left off the peak) and the snow-covered north face to the right of it:
More photos are coming!Wednesday, June 6, 2007
1st Flatiron, Direct East Face 5.6R.
On Saturday (3-May-2007), Morgan and I climbed the 1st Flatiron (the large rightmost formation):
Here is an approximate line of Direct East Face route that we took (~300m). It is a gentle multi-pitch trad line, which we climbed swapping leads.
The first pitch is definitely the crux. The climbing is easy (an easy slab 5.6), but very runout. The first belay station is at the tree (in the middle top of the photo), and it takes a 60m rope to get there. The climb is protected with two bolts in the bottom section, after that there is like 25-30m of unprotected climbing. I think there is a possibility of sticking something half-way, but I saw it when I already climbed above it, so I just went ahead. The climbing is easy, but you really don't want to fall, especially as you are getting close to the tree.
Here is pitch 5 in process. The climbing is easy, but slabby, so runouts are ever-present.
Here is an approximate line of Direct East Face route that we took (~300m). It is a gentle multi-pitch trad line, which we climbed swapping leads.
The first pitch is definitely the crux. The climbing is easy (an easy slab 5.6), but very runout. The first belay station is at the tree (in the middle top of the photo), and it takes a 60m rope to get there. The climb is protected with two bolts in the bottom section, after that there is like 25-30m of unprotected climbing. I think there is a possibility of sticking something half-way, but I saw it when I already climbed above it, so I just went ahead. The climbing is easy, but you really don't want to fall, especially as you are getting close to the tree.
Here is pitch 5 in process. The climbing is easy, but slabby, so runouts are ever-present.
Here is Morgan following this pitch. And the trees far below:
The pitch 6 is my favorite, first bypassing a little overhang by going left followed by well-protected laybacks on a flake. This pitch gains the ridge. From here it took us 3 pitches of easy climbing/scrambling to get to the summit. From here it's a single 60m rope rappel to the ground. All in all it's a great route, well worth doing. You just need to be comfortable with runouts and slabs on easy terrain (5.4-5.6).P.S. Protection: a set of nuts, a set of cams up to #4 Camalot (useful in one spot, but not necessary), and a bunch of shoulder length quickdraws.
Tuesday, June 5, 2007
Montezuma's Tower, North Ridge 5.7.
The tall spire is Montezuma's Tower (Garden of the Gods, Colorado Springs). The first time I saw a photo of it, I just fell in love :-). There is a 5.7 route that follows the ridge line (right ridge on the picture), North Ridge. This Sunday (03-May-2007) Morgan and I did it, and the thing is just absolutely incredible. The climbing itself can't be called outstanding, but the route makes up for it hundred-fold. It is such an aesthetic line - you are following the ridge of this skinny spire, with drop offs on both sides. As Morgan put it, it's the ultimate route for fighting fear of heights. For me it was all about trusting my feet. Leading the first pitch was not that easy, since I'm not used to climbing sandstone, and a recent rain gave the rock a very slippery feel. I always had that thought that the surface layer will just slide from under my foot, sending me into a fall. But after I got used to it, leading the second pitch was just so much easier. It's interesting how leading is different from following, although it's exactly the same route.
P.S. To whom it may concern ;-). The climb can be done in one pitch with a 60m rope, but we did it in two pitches, which I think is a way to go. I didn't want to deal with the rope drag, so we sacrificed the speed. Although the route can be climbed with quickdraws only, I also used a sling (hueco) and #1 and #2 Camalots (maybe #0.4 too). To be honest, I was happy to have this stuff with me. Double ropes for rappel!!! {we used 60m and 50m, but two 50m will do fine}Thursday, May 3, 2007
A Galaxy Far, Far Away...
"Fail to have these characteristics and you could become like the soap-opera character who quickly gets written out of the show, taking a long vacation in Vladivostok, never to return."
The Infinite Book, J.D. Barrow
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
