On Saturday (3-May-2007), Morgan and I climbed the 1st Flatiron (the large rightmost formation): 
Here is an approximate line of Direct East Face route that we took (~300m). It is a gentle multi-pitch trad line, which we climbed swapping leads.
The first pitch is definitely the crux. The climbing is easy (an easy slab 5.6), but very runout. The first belay station is at the tree (in the middle top of the photo), and it takes a 60m rope to get there. The climb is protected with two bolts in the bottom section, after that there is like 25-30m of unprotected climbing. I think there is a possibility of sticking something half-way, but I saw it when I already climbed above it, so I just went ahead. The climbing is easy, but you really don't want to fall, especially as you are getting close to the tree. 
Here is pitch 5 in process. The climbing is easy, but slabby, so runouts are ever-present.
Here is an approximate line of Direct East Face route that we took (~300m). It is a gentle multi-pitch trad line, which we climbed swapping leads.
The first pitch is definitely the crux. The climbing is easy (an easy slab 5.6), but very runout. The first belay station is at the tree (in the middle top of the photo), and it takes a 60m rope to get there. The climb is protected with two bolts in the bottom section, after that there is like 25-30m of unprotected climbing. I think there is a possibility of sticking something half-way, but I saw it when I already climbed above it, so I just went ahead. The climbing is easy, but you really don't want to fall, especially as you are getting close to the tree. 
Here is pitch 5 in process. The climbing is easy, but slabby, so runouts are ever-present.
Here is Morgan following this pitch. And the trees far below:
The pitch 6 is my favorite, first bypassing a little overhang by going left followed by well-protected laybacks on a flake. This pitch gains the ridge. From here it took us 3 pitches of easy climbing/scrambling to get to the summit. From here it's a single 60m rope rappel to the ground. All in all it's a great route, well worth doing. You just need to be comfortable with runouts and slabs on easy terrain (5.4-5.6).P.S. Protection: a set of nuts, a set of cams up to #4 Camalot (useful in one spot, but not necessary), and a bunch of shoulder length quickdraws.
6 comments:
Игорёха, буду краток - Чётко!
и Погодка не подкачала.
Унас сырость.. пасмурно...
Посмотрел сразу солнца захотелось :))
Хороший маршрут :-). И камень хороший. Кстати, насчет погоды: тут интересно, главное, успеть слезть до часу-двух дня, а то потом грозы начинаются. Когда до вершины долезли, облака уже собирались в атаку, и где-то через час началась гроза.
So these are the two climbs I missed, huh? Just not to say "the two climbs I was not invited to"... haha
It looks like you guys had a hell of a time, and I'm glad you did. In the meantime, I'll keep up with my pull-ups! ;)
PD: Yo también me enamoré al ver esa foto!
Samira, we'll make up for it ;-). Just keep those pull-ups going ;-).
P.D. Gracias. Cuál es photo?
I got it, you meant Montezuma's tower. Well, I still need to work on my Spanish.
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